Prague off the beaten path: Vinohrady district

The Vinohrady district is a place of many appeals. Originally a place for vineyards (which is what “Vinohrady” means, anyway), Vinohrady witnessed a population boom in the late 19th and early 20th century, becoming the fourth biggest town in the Czech Republic alone before it became a part of Prague in 1922. It is a district of affluence and beauty, with Art Deco houses and lush trees and beautiful parks overlooking either the centre or other parts of the city.

Now, we love stories of gentrification of former industrial and working class neighborhoods just like the other guy, but this simply will not stand in Vinohrady: it has been a nice and affluent neighborhood for too long. It’s on a hill overlooking the city centre, for Christ’s sake. It is also very popular among expats and young professional: it is very near the centre, but not directly in it, and it has nearly everything you’d want for a comfortable life. If you live in Vinohrady, there would be very few motives to move out of it.

And it is also a great place for other things: Vinohrady used to have the highest concentration of specialty coffee places in Prague and still is a fantastic Vietnamese, Mexican or Italian food, or Czech food for that matter, with some fancy fast food thrown into the mix. And the Jirak farmers’ markets can be a reason alone to move in. And if you haven’t had enough, the cool, Bohemian Zizkov district and the leafy Vrsovice district are just a stone’s throw away. What to see, where to eat and what to drink? Here’s our Vinohrady neighborhood guide.

What to see in Vinohrady:

Husuv sbor

Completed in 1935 and designed by Pavel Janak for the Hussite congregation, Husuv sbor is one of the important Constructivist buildings in Prague. It is dominated by the bell tower with three bells and the chalice, the symbol of the Hussites, at the very top. Getting inside is a revelation: not made churches have a roof made of industrial skylights.

Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord

One of the most famous buildings in Vinohrady, the church was completed in 1932 on a design by Slovenian-born Joze Plecnik, famous for his work at the Prague Castle and in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Inspired by Noah’s Arc, the church really dominates Jiriho z Podebrad Sq. and includes the biggest clock face in Central Europe. The interiors are surprisingly sombre, with a flat wooden ceiling and quite fascinating lighting arrangement.

Riegrovy sady

One of the most popular parks in Prague, especially during the summer, Riegrovy sady has two major appeals. The first one is undoubtedly one of the nicest views of the centre if you sit on the grass on the Western slope. The second is the biggest beer garden in Prague with a capacity of 1400 people. Combine the two for a night to remember. (Closed as of the writing of this due to rent disputes but come on, this can’t last forever, right?) Also, make sure you have a look at the biggest Sokol gym in the world, incl. a pool, on the park’s southern edge.

Námestí Míru

“The Peace Square” is conveniently located above an eponymous subway stop, which means it can be your first point of entry into the neighborhood. It does have lots to offer: the St Ludmila Church was the primary church in the area until the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord was opened, and it houses two cultural institutions: the Vinohrady Theatre and the Národní dum hall right next to the Bruxx pub, which we recommend sneaking into. Also, it accommodates the smallest Vinohrady institution: the hot dog stand right next to the subway entry, one of the few bona-fide street food stands in Prague that has served passers by for decades.

Vinohradské divadlo

The Vinohrady Theatre is testament to the neighborhood’s affluence at the beginning of the 20th Century. Built in 1907, the Art Deco theatre was nearly as opulent as the National Theatre, and filled to the brink with new technology. Today it remains one of the most important theaters in Prague, and the building with the two angels of “bravery” and “truth” is simply stunning.

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Where to eat in Vinohrady:

Kro Kitchen

KRO Kitchen, headed by the young, yet very talented and experienced Vojta Václavík (click here for an episode of our podcast with Vojta), was officially our „opening of the year“ in 2019. Describing the place as a fast food joint with a focus on rotisserie chicken is like describing Momofuku SSam Bar as „you know, a Korean place“. The food is absolutely delicious and based on local ingredients and some techniques formerly employed only by fine dining establishments. Super fun and cheffy at the same time. Make sure to book a table or prepare to wait. They do take away, too.

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Ossegg

If you like craft beers but hate the hype around them, then Ossegg might just be your place. This is a no-thrills pub with beers made in the basement brewery and a kitchen whose dishes punch way above their weight. If you want an „authentic“ Czech pub meal with a good beer at a price that feels like a steal, this is it. One caveat: the pub may lack something in atmosphere, especially during off-peak hours.

Výčep

Our „opening of the year“ of 2018, Výčep is the gastropub we all had been waiting for: good beer, great environment of a cosy pub, and cooking that reminds you of your grandma’s cooking, if your grandma was Wallachian (a part of Moravia) and also used to cook in a Michelin-awarded restaurant. The flavors are deep and reduced, and the dishes are modern and comforting at the same time. One thing not to miss: dessert. While an after-thought in many restaurants, Výčep’s dessert offerings can steal the show.

El Camino

El Camino may have opened a few months ago, but it is definitely NOT a newcomer, as the brain child of Mr Bohm, the owner of the late Medité restaurant in Marianské Lázně spa. Mr Bohm had worked in a few Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain, and El Camino shows: it is hard to fault in any department. The food, the wines and the services are all some of the best in Prague. If you are looking for a fancy meal and like Spanish food (think select hams, croquettes and seafood), El Camino should be on the top of your list not only in Vinohrady but the entire city.

DISH Fine burger bistro

It’s not easy getting a seat in Dish, and it was not easy from the very first day they opened. Because Dish was the first truly gourmet burger joint in Prague that still serves some of the best burgers in town, and the locals can’t get enough of them. Our choice? The Smoky Dish, with a side order of Fitness Fries. (Don’t ask, just order it.) Wash down with the local Unetice lager or their G&Ts. Need more? Visit their second location in Belgická street a few minutes away for a slightly more expanded menu.

Vinohradský parlament

Recently refurbished, Vinohradsky parlament must surely be one of the most beautiful pubs in town. Fresh Pilsner on tap, and a slight focus on Czech dumplings in all their shapes, sizes and flavors. The place is pretty big, so this is the venue if you want to plan a bigger meeting, family reunion and so on. Great bonus: their playroom for kids is second to none, incl. cameras that you can connect to via your smartphone.

Paprika

Once in a while we have an itch that only hummus and some falafel will scratch. That’s the time we go to Paprika. It’s a tiny bistro that tends to be packed and for good reason - this is as flavorful as it gets if you want to eat vegetarian or vegan in Prague. Their shakshuka, sabich, hummus plate, it’s all good. We always leave satisfied. Romantic dinner, though? Look elsewhere.

Pho Vietnam

Pho Vietnam at Jiriho z Podebrad was one of the first places where locals realized that Vietnamese cuisine in Prague, and Pho in particular, can make for a fantastic fast food option to some comforting Czech favorites. Several years and many Vietnamese joints later, they still sell some of the best Pho in town: a huge bowl of fragrant broth full of herbs and ginger with noodles and meat, it is a comforter for any weather condition. We’d go to the Anglicka location for a more civilized, sit-down meal, but if you want the original, hole-in-a-wall feeling, the Slavikova location is your better bet. And if that neon writing on the wall isn’t Instagram-worthy, we don’t know what is.

Hanil

There aren’t many Japanese/Korean places that we’d recommend in Prague, but Hanil has been a local favorite for years and you know what? It ain’t bad. We have enjoyed the sushi and the Korean dishes on several occasions. Extra bonus: the Maitre D, an older gentleman that looks like he was transported in time from the Communist Restaurants and Cafeterias company, is actually very nice and knows his stuff. So he clearly was not transported in time.

Kofein

For the longest time Kofein was the only tapas bar in Vinohrady, if not in Prague. The cooking is surprisingly solid and due to its long heritage, it is interestingly idiosyncratic, to the point of weirdness, compared to the more current tapas bar like Gilda or El Camino, both within walking distance, so this might be an interesting choice if you want a non-traditional spin on the classic tapas.

U Bulínů

Retro can swing many ways here in the Czech Republic due to it’s checkered 20th Century past, but U Bulínů is the good kind of retro: the First Republic, when the livin’ was easy and the eatin’ was good. (Both of these myths are at least debatable historically, but that’s another story.) Expect the charm of an old school pub with all that it entails, meaning great beer and huge portions of comforting Czech pub dishes.

Praktika bakery

Hands down the best bread in town (and Zuzi swears the croissants are great, too) at the moment, and a sensation when it opened out of nowhere a few years ago. Tomas, the baker owner, is super serious about anything he puts into his creations; that is why he mills his own flour. Get a piece of bread with some of their toppings, something sweet like a croissant or a cinnamon bun, a cup of filter coffee, and we’d be happy campers for the day. Oh, would we love to have Praktika around the corner from where we live.

Oh Deer Bakery

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Joining Praktika Bakery next door to complete what some people call Vinohrady’s Baker Street, Oh Deer Bakery sells one thing and one thing only: cronuts. Delicious, fantastic, crunchy, nasty cronuts. They can sell out very quickly, so come in the morning and bring a tiny whip, because after one or two of these, you will want to do a few mea culpas for a few days.

La Farma

La Farma is a small restaurant that serves nice local dishes in a very cosy room. A great place for a Sunday family lunch if you have parents or in-laws that want something that feels familiar in an environment that does not intimidate with avant-garde dishes or out-of-comfort zone ingredients. And the cooking is totally on pointe. Only complaint: ham in the kulajda soup? Why spoil one of the best Czech vegetarian dishes?

Lokál Korunní

The Vinohrady location of the very popular collection of modern Pilsner pubs features the usual suspects: great, fresh Pilsner on tap, traditional Czech dishes that go well with the beer, all served in a room that is an homage to the Category 3 restaurant of the Communist Restaurants and Cafeterias company. Great place to get your bearings around Czech food and pub culture.

Momoichi bistro

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A Japanese-inspired bistro on one of the best food addresses in town, the Rimska street (that also houses Ossegg and Dish), Momoichi delivers good coffee and tea and some nice, Asian-inspired dishes and sweets in a room that is minimalist yet does not betray its Asian inspirations. Bonus feature: real Japanese toilets (heated seat ftw!) in the washrooms.

Bon Fresh Ramen & Soba and Miska Ramen

When ramen wave hit the streets of Prague in 2019, Bon Fresh Ramen and Miska Ramen were among the first, and immediately drew comparisons. The differences? Bon also makes soba noodles, and when we write „makes“, we mean „makes“. Miska offers more broths to choose from and a room that feels a bit more true to its inspiration, as Bon needed to negotiate a more difficult room. We like both but if we were to choose, we’d probably hit Bon. Good food at pretty amazing prices if you ask us. 

Aromi

Aromi has been a staple on the Vinohrady dining scene and easily the fanciest restaurant of the district for years now. And it has remained so after it moved to the new location right next to the Vinohrady Theatre: the spacious room in the back with large windows is a great place if you want to impress your partner or their parents, or if you simply like high-end Italian cuisine with good service and wines. We’d skip the coffee, but the room in the front will be a good option for breakfast or a snack any time of the day, and might end up being better value than the fancy meals in the back.

Spižírna 1902

With a slightly aggressive styling, a strong baking game, weekend brunches that don’t skip on booze (yes!) and a menu that will also satisfy vegans. Spizirna 1902 has quickly become a favorite among especially younger crowds, and you can see why: it just hits too many boxes every time of the day from breakfast to small tapas in the evening. Make sure you get a reservation for the weekend brunch.

Martin’s Bistro

Martin’s Bistro is one of those small little bistros that are cosy and the service is warm and food is nice and affordable, which is exactly what a bistro should be. They do well what Prague does well in general: cheap lunch specials, but these are a tad above the general offer, with attention paid to those who don’t eat meat.

Yamato

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Yamato is probably the best sushi place in Prague. Which is located in a landlocked country. You do the math. But if you seriously crave sushi, Yamato, run by a Czech chef with genuine sushi-master training, is the only sushi place in Prague that makes sense: Japanese aesthetics, service and traditions are taken seriously and the sushi is as good as it gets here - they bypass the standard fish delivery services and get their own shipped extra.

Bruxx

Belgian beers and mussels? If you crave that in Prague, comfortably nestled far from the nearest sea shore, you might want to give Bruxx a try. It actually is one of the places in Prague where having mussels makes any sense: this is a high-turnover environment for mussels, so the ones ending up on your plate will be actually fresh and delicious.

Vinohradsky pivovar

Did the Vinohrady district need a brewery? Of course it did. How can you ask that? And it actually brews some interesting beers, incl. the Vinohradska 11, the brewery’s take on the Czech classic slightly-less-ABV-than-a-lager-but-oh-so-drinkable beer. If you want to see a noisy, happy place that serves Czech pub classics, which can either be great or less great, make sure you add Vinohradsky pivovar to your list.

J’s Kitchen

Modern Korean fast-food bowls. That’s exactly what this place without virtually any tables offers. But the bowls are tasty and easy to take away and eat in any of the nearby parks. Nothing we would travel across the town for, but great stuff if you’re in the area.

Arepas de Lyna

Venezuelan arepas in the smack centre of Europe. Great fun for a quick lunch if you’re in the area.

Gilda

For the longest time, Kofein used to be our choice for Spanish-style tapas, but the recently opened Gilda, a part of the (rather posh) Kogo group, has changed that (and El Camino, a few blocks away, but we’ll call that part of Zizkov already). Gilda is a small, casual tapas bar with all the usual suspects - croquettes, tortillas, charcuterie, gildas (duh) and so on. Add bubbles and wine, sit outside on a sunny day and watch people pass you by on the way to the farmers’ market. 

Nota Bene

If you want a good, honest Czech meal (with a slight French influence)Nota Bene should be among your shortlist... if you’re willing to wait, because you may sometimes grow a small beard before the small kitchen completes the order on a busy night. Fantastic lunch specials at prices that are a steal.

Las Adelitas

Another first for Vinohrady: Las Adelitas was the first “destination” Mexican restaurant worth traveling for, and it still remains one of our top food choices after a night of drinking. The original location in Americka is still the cutest one in our view, while the Lucemburska location can accommodate larger parties and more mango margaritas… which will only require another hung over visit the next day. Seems somebody’s found the perfect business model here, come to think of it.

Bad Jeff's Barbeque

Some of the best barbecue in Prague. Chef Bad Jeff Cohen prepares ribs, chicken wings and burgers according to the best of American traditions, but vegetarians are not ostracized and segregated in Bad Jeff’s BBQ with a selection of meatless dishes. One of the few restaurants that serve house cocktails. Come to think of it, more restaurants in Prague should offer house cocktails.

Le Caveau

A hugely popular French “traditional” cafe and bakery, Le Caveau started as a small space but has kept expanding until today’s size. We would not have coffee here for the world, but they do make some of the best baguettes in town, and their croissants are decent, too. And you know what? We’d easily see ourselves spending an evening in Le Caveau drinking wine and just nibbling on things.

Prima chlebícek

No, Prima chlebíček is not hipster or cool in any sense of the word. But if there is any place in Prague that could be norm-core, it would be Prima chlebicek, a deli that sells reasonably good chlebiceks, the Czech open-faced sandwiches, at reasonable prices. It was cool three years ago, but the world has moved on. Still a solid choice and a place to see locals eating quick, authentic food. For the love of god, don’t enter the canteen next door.

Jirák Farmers’ Market

One of the first and still one of the most popular farmers’ markets in Prague, the Jirak market is a classic Prague destination and truly your only choice if you want to visit a farmers’ market but don’t have Saturdays free, because it opens on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Yes, it may be small but it’s authentic and true, and the atmosphere in between the trees and along the benches is nice and neighborly. A great stop anywhere you go.

Tylovo námestí Farmer’s Market

The fairly new farmer’s market on Tylovo námestí square is tiny and does not open every day but you know what? It is cute and whenever we walked by (usually stuffed from the Paprika bistro), we ended up buying some vegetables or fruits because the soup stands seemed legit and sold good produce. The market does turn the square, usually choked off from the rest of the area by some heavy traffic, into a place where sitting on a bench and munching on a cupcake or something is a viable, pleasant option.

Erhart Café

The newer location of one of the most popular Czech pastry shops in Prague plays the retro card, and it plays it well: the logo and the interior design is reminiscent of the Constructivist 1930s when the original Erhart Café was a popular destination in the Letna district. The pastries do follow the local tradition, too, and they’re not bad. Their vetrnik (caramel choux pastry) actually ranked high in our Prague’s vetrnik challenge a few years ago, which is a sign of quality… and decadence.

IF Café

Sure, we won’t ever have the coffee there unless somebody’s pointing a gun at us. And the cutie-pants decor of the French-style patisserie is not our style. And we don’t like every pastry they sell. But the ones we do? We do like them quite a bit. And we actually like the fact that the owner, a Czech Top Chef finalist, does not phone it in and is working her ass off in the shop. And her versions of the classic pastries by Cedric Grolet are a much cheaper and quicker way of trying some without a flight to Paris. We prefer the Tylovo namesti location over the Belgicka one.

Donut shop

Hipster donuts by the people behind the very popular coffee room. No seats, really, just a tiny bar and a focus on take away donuts. Our favorite? Brown butter for extra sinning.

Zmrzlinár

A place of pilgrimage for Vinohrady locals and people like us who live farther away, Zmrzlinar is an ice-cream shop that sells ice-cream by 2AD, a local producer that supplies ice-cream to some of the best coffee shops in Prague. But here the selection is wider, and the place can be wildly popular on a hot summer day… for a reason. Get the sea buckthorn, really: it’s the most refreshing when a heat wave hits the city.

Where to drink in Vinohrady

Prosekárna

If you love Italian bubbles, don’t make this your first stop in Vinohrady. Because it could easily become your last, too. Prosekárna may be first and foremost a shop that sells Prosecco, and lots of it, but that does not mean you can’t buy a bottle and open it right there. Maybe they even let you enter their basement that features a cool fireplace. And if you think Prosecco is just cheap bubbles, think again: they have some boutique bottles and delicious natural Prosecco, too.

Beergeek

Had enough of the ubiquitous Pilsner Urquell and want to taste something different? Beergeek will deliver: the bar opened by the eponymous beer distributor offers a curated selection of thirty beers on tap from both Czech Republic and abroad in smaller, tasting portions. And chicken wings. Because they go well with beer. Come in the afternoon for a serious tasting session, stay later for the party. Seasonal beers, experimental batches, tap takeovers: you name it, they have it. A must for any beer lover visiting Prague as one of the best places for craft beers in Prague.

Bar and Books

Bar and Books may be the best place in Prague to spend New Year’s Eve with the burlesque show, but that does not mean it’s not worth a visit during the rest of the year. The place tries hard to keep things happening: they serve Bond-inspired drinks, give Cuban cigars to ladies for free on Mondays, give discounts on whiskey on Tuesdays, and have a burlesque show and insult comedy nights from time to time. And if having whiskey and a cigar while being insulted by comedian isn’t fun, we don’t know what is.

Bonvivant’S CTC

One of the most popular cocktail bars in town has recently moved from its central location to the space at Mánesova that was previously occupied by the Lounge Bohemia speakeasy. Bonvivant’s, along with Bar and Books, is your place to go if you crave a cocktail or two in the area. Larger groups can get a private seating in the back, which can come in handy, too. Otherwise we’d just sit at the bar or in the front room if we were you.

Wine and Degu

A small wine bar opened by „the best sommelier of the Czech Republic“ (when will you drop it, please?), Wine & Degu is an unpretentious place (unlike that title, come on!) with the feel of a small Italian trattoria that has a nicely curated selection of wines both domestic and foreign. Their tasting evenings is where it gets interesting: the samples are interesting and the prices are right!

Tout va bien

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Not sure if this is technically still Vinohrady (then again, what is it then?), but Tout Va Bien, a small coffee shop run by two young ladies hailing all the way from South Korea, must be one of our favorite places in Prague. It’s like a coffee shop from Planet Zen: great design, good coffee from beautiful ceramics, fancy magazines to read, be bop jazz from the speakers, and lots of flowers and plants in between. Amazing stuff.

Ronin Coffee Spot

Walking into Ronin Coffee Spot feels a bit like you’re encroaching on the personal space of Boris, the barista owner: the place really is a reflection of one of Prague’s seasoned coffee veterans. Boris is a guy you could definitely describe as laid back, and so is Ronin CS: just a few tables up front, some lounge chairs in the middle by the bar (yup, Boris is up for a chat), and a small garden in the back for those hot summer days. This is the place to read a book or get some work done.

Cafefin

Cafefin made a splash when it opened on Jiriho z Podebrad a few years ago, because Jackie, the owner, like to do things a bit differently. Sure, there is no table service but the strong visuals of the place and the dishes have made Cafefin a favorite among Prague’s Instagram community. And by Prague’s Instagram community, we mean pretty much everyone under 25 years of age. But this is not a kindergarten:  their coffee and food offerings are both solid and a result of clear thinking.

Mou Limited

Mou is a tiny espresso bar in one of the smaller streets between Manesova and Vinohradská: just a row of chairs along a bench, and maybe two bar seats. Good coffee though by people associated with one of the most popular coffee shops in town. Great if you want to get lost, at least for now, before it enters public knowledge.

coffee room.

Yes, coffee room is a fairly small room that sits maybe three tables and a few more chairs along the walls, but the young, passionate owners with a peculiar affinity to London are genuinely eager to please and the atmosphere is friendly. Quite a few reasons to come: good coffee from selected European micro-roasters, nice sandwiches, kolache or buchta buns and cookies on the bar, and good tea by Tea Mountain and natural wine from Veltlin, the two Karlin-based suppliers, to boot. Not to mention the selection of high-end magazines we pretend to read while we’re there.

Kavárna Prazírna

Kavarna prazirna, which translates as “The Roastery Cafe”, has a huge following as a place that roasts and serves good specialty coffee at affordable prices and prepared by and for regular folks without the hipster fuzz usually associated with purveyors of good coffee. We’d go more often if it were not for the interiors, because we don’t particularly like basement cafes. Still, if this place tickles your fancy, you’ll be probably returning often.

La Boheme Café

Basically a former designer furniture store turned headquarters of a local roaster, it is easy to understand why La Boheme Coffee is so popular: quirky, comfortable interiors with the largest windows in Prague’s coffee world, the coffee is solid, and the teas are actually nice. And you get to sit in a sofa, which is a welcome change after the hardwood benches and repurposed palettes they let you sit on in other specialty coffee places.

Mezi Srnky

A cute, small bistro with a kitchen that is very open serves great coffee and nice lunches, soups, sandwiches and smaller snacks, with many vegetarian options (think avocado toast and such). Their brunches over the weekend are so popular don’t bother coming in without a reservation. Mezi srnky attracts younger crowds who know what is up and their Instagram game is strong, which does not undermine the cooking or the service. Great stuff.. 

Dos Mundos

Clearly, Vinohrady thinks having a couple coffee roasters is not cool, so it added another one. Dos Mundos roasts its beans on the premises, and lets you taste the results for a reasonable fee. We’d sit at the bar, breath in the aroma and enjoy the roasting show.

Martinez

Cocktails and dim sum dumplings? You had us at, well… both. The cocktails in Martinez are top notch, backed by bartenders who used to work in some of the big names in the city centre. And the dim sum dumplings? Well, don’t expect Din Tai Fung, but they are fun after a few drinks. The space is segmented into a few barely lit rooms, so this is a great place if you want to drink away in privacy.

Pivo a párek

I mean, this place is called Beer and sausage. Isn’t that really self-explanatory? No? Really? Okay then: six beers on tap, many more in bottles, and sausages, some bacons, marinated cheeses and all the other usual suspects when it comes to classic Czech beer tapas. Unpretentious, with great curation of their beer selection, and outdoor seating in the back. ‚Nuff said.

Where to shop in Vinohrady

NILA, NILA Daily and Nila Kids

Three shops in one, the small empire of Nila spills across the street and we can only hope it would spill some more, because Nila comes from a planet of better design that is tasteful, elegant and mostly sustainable. Selling anything from fashion to organic cosmetics, home accessories or stationery, the products are always high quality, carry a certain elegance, and offer great bang for the buck. The main store on the corner carries most of the fashion. Nila Daily next door carries cosmetics and other smaller items, and Nila Kids across the street sells kids fashion and more toys you or your wallet can handle.

Book Therapy

Book Therapy is exactly what the name says: retail therapy… for books. Not the biggest bookstore in the world, but a piece of zen filled with beautiful books for adults and kids alike. Check out their „Book Therapy VIP Experience“, meaning their private after-hours openings by appointment - just you and the books, undisturbed by anyone. And your kids may love their Flowers and Dinosaurs subscription program - you get two beautiful books every month that help your little one expand their imagination or creative skills. Our JJ loves it. (Disclaimer: we get these books for free, although we would have paid for the program if we did not. It’s honestly great.)

Shop Up Stories

What started as a pop-up store of some small, independent Czech manufacturers and resellers of quality boutique products has turned into a permanent… ehh… „cooperative“ of the same. Great local tableware, cosmetics, baby products, stationery made or curated by young creative minds of Prague. Like your Pinterest board, but in real life. Our visit there always ends with a card swipe no matter how hard we try to resist it.

Bisqit and Shit happens

Ever ate at a fancy restaurant or drank a 4 USD cup of coffee and thought to yourself „These plates / cups are so cool. Where are they from?“ Well, Bisqit is that kind of tableware and pottery. We’d love to have every piece of their modern, cool and colorful collections, and we come from a country that is famous for ceramics. Their studio also carries ceramic jewelry by Sh*t happens, which is what Lizzo would sell if she was a jewelry maker. (Let’s see how that reference works five, ten years from now.) Honestly, if you want to bring home some small items for the home, this should be your top contender.

Lula Vintage

You know, there are vintage clothing shops where you’re afraid to touch anything if you forgot your Purell at home. And then there’s Lula Vintage. Curated by one of Czech Instagram’s fashion personalities, Lula only carries high quality, very wearable stuff that has been only mildly worn and is in great condition. Zuzi hates vintage stores. She would buy and wear stuff from Lula. ‚Nuff said.

Boho Vintage Café and Store

In a town that does not mix coffee and retail very much, BVCS hits it out of the park in a space that would fit right in there with the cool shops on Sunset Blvd in LA. Well curated vintage fashion, retro home accessories and jewelry and coffee in vintage ceramics, all served in a room that has a retro chic vibe. Check their website or social media for pop up food or retail events! 

Kvartýr shop & studio

If you want to be spoilt for choice, then Kvartýr may not be your thing, but while the portfolio of this studio is on the smaller side, it carries just the brands that matter. This is not streetwear: this is for the young who steer towards quality and don’t have to make a fashion statement visible from two blocks away. And that’s not a bad thing in our book.

Pour Pour

Pour Pour is a tiny design store that manages to cram in quite an assortment of pieces by young fashion and fashion accessory designers into a small room. Most of the pieces cater to a younger audience: they’re fun and you won’t have to take a mortgage to buy them.

Moleskine shop

Well, the title says it all. If you like Moleskine products (and we know you do), you will LOVE this shop that sells virtually nothing else. Come for the regular stuff, walk away with the limited editions.

Vinohradský Pavilon

Sure, you may not be buying a sofa on your vacation, but Vinohradsky Pavilon, the showroom of the Stockist furniture and home accessories distributor with outposts by Modernista and Kubista design shops, is worth a visit. Originally a market hall became the first post-Communist luxury “mall”, only to become vacant as luxury brands all moved into the centre. Today the pavilion showcases furniture and home accessories by famous foreign and up-and-coming Czech brands, like Lugi, which makes fantastic wooden boards and rolling pins and other office and kitchen accessories. Yes, the price tags are sometimes prohibitive, but one can dream, right?

Lazy Eye

Lazy Eye fashion pieces are highly addictive if you like 1950s classic fashion. Because we’ve seen women buying one piece and then never buying anything else. Just sayin’. We’re talking dresses and wide skirts in bright colors or plaids. Although they may be reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn in the Roman Holiday, they do look surprisingly good on women with ink, which actually seems to be a demographic that fell in love with the brand. Subdued, invisible pieces? No. These are “look-at-me” fashion statements.

Dum porcelanu

Want to impress your grandma with an authentic souvenir from Prague? The classic blue onion design pottery is the thing to buy. And where else should you buy it than in a factory store of a traditional Czech manufacturer? Sure, hipsters may not be lining up to buy the classic today, but trust us. It’s coming back. We give it two years.

Bazar P&J

The secret spot that Karen, the owner of the Artelglass design stores, failed to keep to herself when she spilled the beans in our interview. She goes there to buy antiques. And she LOVES buying antiques. If you’re like her, you might find that precious find you’ve been waiting for so long