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Explore Prague's Wenceslas Square and New Town

Explore Prague's Wenceslas Square and New Town

When we started our Prague Foodie Tours at the top of the Wenceslas Square in Prague’s New Town, showing its historical importance was easy: we’d just whip out our iPad and show photos of people celebrating Czechoslovakia’s independence in 1918, the Nazi troops parading on the square in 1938, the Soviet tanks in 1968, and the Velvet Revolution that ended Communism in late 1989.

Yes, Wenceslas Square, one of Prague’s natural crossroads and a place when the locals meet to venture into the historical centre, where they work and shop (but rarely live) is a place where history was repeatedly made. It has been losing its splendour in the past decades as it lost some high-profile retail shops to Old Town’s Pařížská street and as it became the nearest Prague had to a red light district at night. Think Champs-Élysées, but in Prague.

So the locals may be a bit grumpy about the current state of the square, and look forward to plans of its revitalisation, which - after years of empty promises - seem to be finally picking up speed.

The Wenceslas Square is not just a photo opportunity to capture the monumental National Museum towering at the top of the avenue (year, the „square“ is not really a square), but a great place to spend a day, or a half of it, breathe in the history, have a meal and a drink, and wonder through the webs of walkthroughs that connect the buildings around it. So if you’ve done the Old Town and the Castle District during your Prague trip, the Wenceslas Square is a great place to explore, especially on a rainy day in Prague.


New Prague openings of 2021 - Have you been?

New Prague openings of 2021 - Have you been?

At the end of every year, we write a piece on new openings in Prague. And every year we’re surprised by how many good or decent places actually opened. And boy oh boy, while 2021 sure was a difficult year, we have edited our count down to 50, which means nearly one opening per week. Not too shabby. And this list is by no means exhaustive - it’s just a list of places that have entered our radar and are or are supposed to be good.

And like every year, we’ve made a cheat sheet for you to print out and out it in your wallet or on your fridge, in an attempt to remind yourself that there are still places in Prague you haven’t been. Feel free to scroll down for a download.

Anyway, let’s go down recent memory lane and see what opened in 2021.


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 11 - Gwilym Davies, coffee judge and barista trainer

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 11 - Gwilym Davies, coffee judge and barista trainer

We have written before about how good the Prague coffee scene is. There’s a few reasons why, but we did mention one specific contributing factor: the power duo of Petra Vesela and her UK-born husband, Gwilym Davies, who happens to be the 2009 World Barista Champion.

They may have met under some interesting circumstances: we will just mention a death threat during a coffee competition, judges locked in the judges room… and a bottle of whiskey in the very same room, a leftover from an Irish coffee preparation before. For the rest of the story, you will just have to listen to the podcast. Anyway, Gwilym came over to see Petra in Jílové, a village near Prague, and the rest is history.

Gwilym is an incredibly interesting guest to interview because…

  • He is in a unique position to compare Prague and London coffee scenes (which we do a lot of in the podcast), since he owns a stake in Prufrock coffee in London but lives in Prague

  • He was one of the pioneers of the Third Wave Coffee revolution, having learnt the craft in New Zealand and brining it to Europe. He was right there with James Hoffmann and Scott Rao, the people who have helped define what a specialty coffee operation looks like.

  • He and Petra own a barista training centre that will train anybody from the general public to baristas who are about to compete in the World Barista Championships. You always see Gwilym and Petra in a Prague coffee shop with a barista from Korea, Japan or Australia who flew over just to have their presentation fine tuned by Gwilym and Petra, who are both certified judges for high-profile barista championships and events.

  • He is now also a roaster under The Naughty Dog label, taking on a different role in his never-ending quest and thirst for knowledge.

As a result, Gwilym has helped cultivate and improve the coffee scene in Prague through his trainings and sheer presence, and has been a connecting link between Prague’s coffee culture and the rest of the coffee world. But as you will hear in the podcast, he has learnt a thing or two from Czech baristas, and brought some of that knowledge with him back to London and Prufrock Coffee.

Finally, Gwilym is a super nice guy that is just a pleasure to talk to. We sat for about 40 minutes in Kafe Pragovka during the Czech Barista Championships, and despite the noise in the coffee shop and at the event (sorry about that!), we had an absolute blast talking to Gwilym.

This is some of the things we discussed with Gwilym during the interview:

  • What does he like about the Prague coffee scene.

  • How does it compare to the London coffee scene.

  • Does he feel a part of the Prague coffee scene, or London coffee scene? In terms of the clientele, the drinks, the quality of coffee, or the living standards of baristas?

  • Is there anything specific about the Prague coffee scene?

  • How long will he continue to judge barista competitions? Has he ever faced any threats as a judge?

  • When was the last time he saw a presentation as a judge that was, well… different or surprising in any way?

  • Does he ever plan to open a coffee shop in Prague or the Czech Republic?

  • What does he miss from the UK?

  • What are the things he would miss from the Czech Republic if he were to move back to the UK?

There you have it. Hope it Enjoy the podcast!


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 9 - Brewsta, Prague Burger Enthusiast and Food Blogger

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 9 - Brewsta, Prague Burger Enthusiast and Food Blogger

To quote David Letterman, my next guest needs no introduction. That is, if you’ve been living in Prague for the past decade or so and have had a keen interest in food. The one, the only, Czech Please, aka Brewsta, aka the Masked Food Critic. Okay, I made that last one up - got carried away a bit here.

Anyway, Brewsta started his Prague-centric English-writted food blog back in 2007, as the first… ehhh… Prague-centric English-writted food blog back then. There literally was nothing else - either the horribly metaphoric (and secretly distorted by hidden friendships and behind-the-back deals) Czech restaurant reviews in the mainstream media, or Brewsta. We followed him religiously, and if I am ever diagnosed with diabetes, I will blame all the chocolate fondants I ate because of Brewsta in between, let’s say 2009 and 2012. Amazingly, the blog is still live, and I think this is the only reason why blogspot as a platform should never be unplugged from the interwebs.

What has ready made Brewsta famous around Prague have been his Prague burger rankings, a tradition of 13 years now. Ranking anywhere between the city’s best 20 to 30 burgers, Brewsta is putting his body on the line so that you don’t have to. And people listen. I am always amazed how even Czechs who normally do not follow English-speaking food-related outlets can list the top five burgers out of Brewsta’s list every single year.

Another thing that you should know about Brewsta is his strong desire to stay anonymous through his entire blogging career and a strong separation of his private life from his blogging life. So we avoid questions that might in any way reveal his real identity. 

Which was a bummer for us - we wanted to conduct the interview in a burger joint, seeing Brewsta do what he does best: eat and rate a burger. But he does not want to draw attention to himself and let people in the food industry know what he looks like. Luckily, the good people at Mr. HotDog made a special delivery to the door of our Taste of Prague apartment where we held the interview, so you will hear Brewsta munching away at their delicious beef sliders and listen to his burger ranking process. 

We also discuss his 2020 Prague burger rankings that came out on the day of the interview, his experience as an expat living in Prague for 20+ years, the sustainability and the environmental footprint of the beef industry, and whether he will ever rate vegetarian or vegan burgers. Listen away, Brewsta is a great guy to meet and interview.


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 8 - Journalist Joann Plocková

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 8 - Journalist Joann Plocková

Influencers, as a new phenomenon in travel and food, never cease to fascinate us. And we are not talking about the Kardashian lookalikes that will try to sell you anything from energy water to teeth whitening products. We are talking about the people who you may not follow, or even know about, but influencer the way you eat or travel even without you realizing it. And when you think about it, journalists are the prototypical influencers. So you read an article about a destination and though hmmm, that sounds nice… maybe we could go there next year, what interests me is who wrote that piece, who edited it and in what way, who decided to run it in the first place, and so on.

Which brings us to the guest of Episode 8 of our little podcast, Joann Plocková. Joann is travel and design writer who has written pieces for the likes of The New York Times, Monocle, AFAR (once about us, yay!), Financial Times, Conde Nast Traveller and others. And she also wrote a part of the Louis Vuitton guide for Prague and the Wallpaper guide for Prague. Talk about influencing the way you travel! 

Anyway, Joann is one of the nicest writers we have ever worked with - she does not just phone it in (and believe us, we have worked with multiple journalists who hardly did anything but phoning it in, and they are, sadly, influencers too) and she takes her research and writing very seriously. She also happens to be a US expat who has been living in Prague steadily since 2007 and has a unique perspective on Prague and Central Europe as a whole.

We met in the great Ronin Coffee Spot in the Vinohrady district and chatted about her life as an expat in Prague, about the hustle of being a freelance journalist, about the success rate of her pitches (you’ll be surprised - she knows a thing or two about pitching), and about a thing that I have been discussing quite a bit: who actually writes the narrative about a destination, and can locals do anything about it? Like when Buzzfeed puts out a picture of the horrendous trdelník pastry and in a few weeks, it becomes the most Instagrammed food of Prague, while local foodies just shake their heads in bitter disbelief, is there anything we can do to change that?

Anyway, if you have ever though about influencers, narratives of different destinations, or ever though about being a freelance journalist or travel writer, this episode is for you.


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 7 - Chef Bára Simunková

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 7 - Chef Bára Simunková

Okay, all Czech chefs who worked, not staged, in multiple three-Michelin star restaurants in a big city abroad, hands up! Okay, there must be only one. Bára Šimůnková has worked in Eleven Madison Park, Le Bernardin and Per Se, three 3-Michelin stars in New York City. Again, was not there on a stage (except Eleven Madison Park) - she actually worked there as a line chef. And now she’s coming back and is hopefully due to open a restaurant in Prague in the spring. Oh yeah, and she’s not even 30.

Anyway, we have heard of Bára when she came back and worked at our favorite bakery in Prague, Praktika, and it was nearly mythical: „have you heard of this Bára? She worked at Per Se and Le Bernardin and she’s amazing.“ And as will be revealed in the podcast, she was praised by Paul Day when he hired her for Sansho as her first job out of school. Given all that, it’s a wonder that Bára has been moving below the radar and has not been filling the title pages of major Czech cooking and food magazines.

Maybe it’s because she’s laser-focused and does not waste a lot of time. She knows what she wants and does not take sh*t from anybody. When she felt being passed over for promotion because she was a girl from the East, she went straight to the managers to talk it over. When she arrived in NYC, she basically sent emails to what she thought were the best five restaurants in town, and got a response from three right away.

And now she’s back and due to open a restaurant in Prague. What are the differences between chef life in NYC and Prague? How does she feel about the Prague food scene, having come back from the best restaurants of NY? How demanding is work in a three-Michelin restaurant? What will her Prague restaurant be all about? Listen to find out. Enjoy the podcast with Bára!


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 6 - Lindsey Tramuta and Wendy Lyn, Paris

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 6 - Lindsey Tramuta and Wendy Lyn, Paris

oday’s podcast episode is a bit special because it’s the first time we have taken the podcast on the road, namely to Paris, the City of Lights. You know, we have been visiting Paris quite frequently over the years, and while the first, pre-Taste of Prague visit was absolutely delicious dreadful, we’ve learnt to navigate Paris our own way, avoiding the tourist traps and enjoying what Paris does best - food and wine, obviously.

Now, we have posted our tips for Paris previously quite some time ago, but we thought it would be fun to talk to some insiders who have lived in Paris for quite some time and whom we have been following to get some inside scoops about what’s what in the French capital. And it this podcast, we have spoken to two absolutely fantastic ladies who are just that.


Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 5 - Concierge Petr Zezula

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 5 - Concierge Petr Zezula

Hey there! It’s another Thursday, which means another episode of the Taste of Prague podcast, a podcast by Taste of Prague food tours about travel and food in Prague and the rest of the world. This episode is again more about tourism than food, but we are super excited. We don’t think high-ranking hotel concierges often get to - or want to - talk, so that’s why we are stoked to have been able to record an episode with Mr Petr Zezula, former managing concierge of Prague’s Four Seasons hotel.

When we started Taste of Prague food tours back in 2011, we had absolutely no prior experience with tourism. How it worked, how did the product get to the customer, who do you promote to, how to work with the individual stakeholders, who were the gatekeepers and the movers. But soon enough, having made friends in the industry and meeting and sharing experience with like-minded people who ran tours, too, one name started popping up quite a lot. The ultimate player in the industry. The guy sitting at the very top. The one and only. Capo di tutti capi. Petr Zezula, the managing concierge at the best hotel in town, the Prague Four Seasons, and the President of the Czech Chapter of Les Clefs d’Or organization.

But meeting Petr eye to eye, capo di tutti capi would probably be the last thing on your mind. He is friendly yet dignified, projects a sense of calm and is soft-spoken, and he’s a great listener with a keen and authentic interest in what you have to say. One would even say introverted. But just a few words into the conversation, and you’ll realize Petr is an incredible wealth of knowledge, the person who always knows what to, what the protocol is, and whom to call. And he has this sense of self-confidence that one assumes can only come from years of experience, while being open to new ideas he has not been confronted with.

And perhaps because he resigned from the position and left the Four Seasons a year ago for deeply personal reasons, we had the unique opportunity to talk to him and ask him about the role of the concierge, his own career, and what he misses and does not miss from his old job. We think this episode is a rare insight into the world of a high-ranking concierge and their world that, at times, seems to be rooted in the old, better days of a 1960s Bond movie. (Without the sexism, obviously.)

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Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 4 - Vojta Václavík of KRO Kitchen

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 4 - Vojta Václavík of KRO Kitchen

Hey there! It’s Thursday, which means another episode of the Taste of Prague podcast, a podcast by Taste of Prague food tours about travel and food in Prague and the rest of the world. And after three episodes about tourism, we finally turn to food: we had the pleasure to interview Vojta Václavík, the chef and owner of the amazing KRO Kitchen. (BTW, if you have been pronouncing KRO in a way that rhymes with “shmoe”, you are wrong. It rhymes with “blue”.)

Now, we’ll admit straight away that we have been huge fans of the little fast food place in the Vinohrady district ever since they opened just a few months ago. Sure, this is fast food, but it ain’t no McDonald’s. The food is super tasty, the produce is sourced from really nice sources (including the farmers market across the street) and the cooking is super smart. KRO Kitchen has been the first place that could go head to head with the cool fast places in bigger cities to the West of Czechia and overseas, and we mean it: deceptively simple, yet made with techniques that could easily find place in the kitchen of a much fancier establishment.

And behind it all is the calm force that is Vojta Václavík. When you think about it, he’s achieved quite a bit given his fairly young age: he worked in such Prague icons as Dahab and Sansho, only to move to Oslo, Norway and work in the Michelin-starred Fauna (now sadly defunct) and then staging in Koka and 28+ in Gothenburg, Sweden. When he came back he took on the uneasy challenge to head the cuisine of the fancy Hergetova Cihelna restaurant. And before all that, he made a small detour and finished university, writing a thesis paper about Eating Habits in the Czech Republic. Not bad for a sweet 17. (Okay, he’s older than that, but you get what I mean.)

Now, saying that Vojta is passionate about his craft would be a cliché that you could say just about any good chef. But Vojta’s passion is different: he’s not a fanboy of some famous chefs - he does have a vision for Czechs to eat better, and he is focused on making sure we all get there. And whether he thinks of it or not in those terms, he cares about sustainability and waste that his business generates.

We recorded the interview in KRO Kitchen during the morning prep, so please excuse the noises in the background, especially in the beginning of the interview, as some technicians were repairing an air duct or something. I could talk with Vojta forever - about his dining experience in Noma, about the cool new projects in Prague, his new kitchen that he is about to open… chatting about all this with the backdrop of the knives hitting the chopping board and breathing in the smells is truly magical. And eating some of the stuff they were preparing after the interview was over was pretty magical too.

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Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 3 - Mark Baker

Taste of Prague Podcast, Ep 3 - Mark Baker

Hey there! I am really happy about the third episode of the Taste of Prague podcast, a podcast by Taste of Prague food tours about travel and food in Prague and the rest of the world, because it’s a great one: I had the pleasure to have a chat with the one and only Mark Baker.

Mark who? Yeah, while he may be invisible to many, Mark is a writer of guide books for the Lonely Planet, Fodor’s and Frommer’s, covering mostly Central and Eastern Europe. So if you’re walking past the Charles Bridge and can’t get through because of the crowds, well, that’s kinda Mark’s fault. No, really, he wields a lot of invisible might, steering travelers in the right places and making sure that they enjoy the destination to the fullest. We see his guides in the hands of the guests of our Prague food tours all the time. Let me put it this way: the man who covers Slovenia for the Lonely Planet got „knighted“ by the Slovenian government. I will make it one of my top 2020 priority the same thing happens to Mark in the Czech Republic.

Mark is a fascinating guy. Hailing from Ohio and having majored in politics at the Miami University (the one in Ohio), he worked in Vienna for The Economist group when the Berlin Wall fell. Then he got to Prague on a writing assignment and… well, never left would not be entirely correct, but he’s still here 28 years later. He was one of the founders of the iconic Globe coffee shop / book store that was the ground zero for the exact community and young local intellectuals (heck, I was one of them) in the Holesovice district. He is also the author of multiple articles about Central and Eastern Europe for the likes of the BBC, the Wall Street Journal or the National Geographic. Finally, he has a fantastic website with long-form posts about his experiences living in and traveling through Central and Eastern Europe. It’s a true wealth of information and great writing: don’t blame me if you spend long minutes or hours browsing through the posts.

But back to the interview. When you think about it, writing guide books seems to be the perfect job: somebody pays you to travel and you write about it. But of course, on second thought, this ain’t no vacation. So this episode of the podcast tries to look into the mechanics of writing a guide book. Who is it for, how is it researched, what is the brief, and how do you write it. And also, we look at the future of the printed guide book in the age of the internet and the smartphone app. Mark also has a few comments on the Czechs and Czechia, having lived here - on and off - since 1991.

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